One Month

This week two missions traveled to Gonder to see the work being done for Ethiopian immigrants to Israel. On Monday we met with a mission from Detroit, Michigan at the JDC Health Clinic. Unfortunately, we had to leave for school shortly after they arrived. Dr. Rick Hodes took good care of them though, speaking about prevalent health issues in Ethiopia and the services being provided by the JDC. That evening we were able to talk with the group over dinner.

Two patients at the JDC Health Clinic

My conversations with participants made me stop and think, “Has my first month here desensitized me to the ugly realities so apparent newcomers?” One man proclaimed, “There were people bathing in the river!” I responded, “Oh only a few. The river’s very dry this time of the year.” Another man announced that he had been swarmed upon leaving the hotel. I smiled back and joked, “Let me guess, children tried to sell you gum or toothbrushes and men tried to convince you to visit the Simien Mountains?”

That’s Gonder. People wash their clothing and bathe in the river, which shocked me initially but did not come as a complete surprise. Faranjis in the Piazza are conspicuous and naturally draw attention. Most of the children selling gum and toothbrushes in the Piazza actually go to school. A few of these children are young boys studying to become priests. The church cannot pay for their expenses so the boys sell small goods in the afternoons to support themselves. Whenever Ari and I are in the Piazza we are always approached. Often after we decline to buy gum or arrange a trip to the mountains, the seller still wants to just talk to us. So far, Gonderians have been nothing but gregarious and curious.

Other members of the group discussed the poverty, poor sanitation, and unexpected beauty of the surrounding countryside. One couple quietly ate tuna from packets. I commiserated and told them that it had been difficult for me to eat meat in Gonder and our kitchen was stocked with canned tuna. That’s Gonder.

Street in close to the Piazza

One of the main roads in Gonder goes through
the neighborhood of College

Monk walking in College 

Reloading wood on a gari

Children playing soccer on a dirt field behind the library

Personally, I have found it very interesting that everyone in Gonder is relatively poor. There are few people actively begging though. Occasionally, a child or elderly person will stick out a hand toward us. Just as quickly as we say no, the child is off to school or meet up with friends and the elderly woman is off to buy vegetables at the Merkato. Begging is not their main pursuit. Gonder is bustling at all hours of the day. Everyone seems to be going about his or her day. The people do not seem to be frozen by their poverty.

I don’t mean to downplay the severity of poverty or daily struggles for subsistence. Poverty certainly exists here. I get glimpses every day.  According to Unicef, Ethiopia's Gross National Income per capita  is $330 (2009).  Listening to the Detroit group's reactions led me to see that I have become accustomed (ok, a little desensitized) to reality in Gonder. The visit was a needed check on complacency. There is much to be done here, as there is throughout Ethiopia, throughout Africa, and throughout the developing world.