Saturday, January 21, 2012

The Allure of Lalibela

After our time in Gonder, we traveled to Lalibela to see the famous rock-hewn churches. The maze of monolithic churches connected by passages and tunnels is a unique architectural feat. Lalibela, originally called Roha, was the Zagwe dynasty's capital in the 12th and 13th centuries. Legend says that King Lalibela was poisoned by his brother. While in a coma he took a trip to heaven where God instructed him to return to Ethiopia and rebuild Jerusalem. Lalibela awoke from his coma and commissioned the churches to be built. Today the churches are still in use, and Lalibela is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The Countryside of Lalibela




The Churches

Entrance to the northwestern group of churches
Bet Medhane Alem, like many of the other churches, has scaffolding
and roofing as protection
Bet Medhane Alem is the largest rock-hewn
church in the world
Mancala, holes on the floor
Priest
Interior of Bet Medhane Alem
Symbolic graves of Abraham, Isaac,
and Jacob
Bet Maryam, a favorite among pilgrims, is
dedicated to the Virgin Mary
Bet Maryam
Bet Meskel
Interior of Bet Danaghel, which is dedicated to nuns
murdered by the Romans in the 4th century
Interior of Bet Golgotha
Interior of Bet Golgotha
Interior of Bet Golgotha
Interior of Bet Mikael
Priest near Bet Golgotha and Bet Mikael
Bet Giyorgis is shaped like a Greek cross
Tunnel that leads down to Bet Giyorgis
Bet Giyorgis
Bet Giyorgis
Interior of Bet Giyorgis
Entrance to the southeastern group of churches
Moat that must be crossed to get to the
Southeastern churches
The path is known as the 'Way to Heaven'
Girls putting on their shoes outside Bet Gabriel-Rufael,
which may have served as a fortified royal palace
Bet Amanuel
View after leaving the southeastern cluster of churches
We ended our stay with a bonfire at the hotel. We had a local musician and singer come to play for us while we sipped coffee and tea, ate popcorn, sang along, and practiced our eskista, a traditional Ethiopian shoulder dance. Interestingly, the Harlem Shake is based on eskista.




While driving back to the airport, we passed by a quite extravagant funeral. I was sad to leave the religious epicenter of Ethiopia without thoroughly examining every mural, exquisitely designed window, engraving, hidden passageway, and crack of the ancient treasure.



Wednesday, January 18, 2012

Oh My Gonder

Last week I was fortunate enough to volunteer and travel with a JDC Short-Term Service Program group consisting of college-aged Canadians and Israelis hailing from Montreal and Beer Sheva/Bnei Shimon, respectively. The participants were enthusiastic, curious, adventurous, and compassionate. I loved sharing my knowledge of the JDC and Ethiopia with them; seeing their reactions to everyday challenges, cultural differences, appreciative locals, children reaching out to hold their hands and play games with them, beautiful landscapes, and historical sites; and listening to their observations and insights.

I also learned about the participants' communities and lives at home - everything from kibbutzim, gap years, and the Israeli army to Anglophones and Francophones, the Jewish Moroccan population, and CEGEP versus university. Their backgrounds and experiences differed than mine in many ways, and this allowed me to better understand how they viewed the trip and digested the issues at hand. I think their time in Ethiopia defied many of their assumptions, strengthened appreciation for their upbringings, and impacted not only their Jewish identity but also their sense of responsibility to humanity.
Ari and I met the group in Gonder, where we did most of our volunteer work, before moving on to Lalibela and Addis Ababa. Here are some highlights from our time in and around Gonder:

Building a school at Gebra Warka





Providing deworming medication, eye examinations, 
and school supplies for students at Sera Warka

Volunteers passing out deworming medication 
Volunteer and Opthalmic Nurse conducting
eye examinations 
Volunteer teaching the students new songs
Students learning "Head, Shoulders, Knees, and Toes"
Group of boys that I taught how to head a soccer ball
Volunteer and students drawing
Students proudly holding up donated notebooks
Practicing conversational English with our 9th grade 
students at Fasiledes General Secondary School



Baking challah for Shabbat at our house


Weighing children and handing out Plumpy'nut 
at the JDC Health Clinic


Viewing a JDC Water Development Project Site

Children running to greet us as we made our way to the spring
Natural spring that the JDC will turn into a well 
Woman filtering spring water into her
container
Woman carrying the heavy container
of water home
Visiting the Jewish cemetery in Wolleka, former JDC 
Health Center in Teda, and synagogue in Ambober

Cemetery 
Health Center 
Synagogue
Seeing a wedding ceremony while touring 
Debre Berhan Selassie Church



Saturday, January 7, 2012

Ring Out the Old, Ring in the New

Happy New Year! The Internet has been acting a little odd with the blog website, and I've been occupied with the JDC Short-Term Service Program in Ethiopia with Federation CJA. More to come about the trip soon!  

11 Firsts in 2011
  1. First time I tried bibimbap, Utica half-moon cookies (note: these are different than New York black and white cookies), and Scotch eggs
  2. First time I saw Mad Men and the ballet at Lincoln Center
  3. First time I picked up Hemingway since high school and then devoured The Sun Also Rises and For Whom the Bell Tolls 
  4. First Cornell Alumni Admissions Ambassador Network Interviews
  5. First travels to Spain, Portugal, Germany, and Turkey
  6. First high school reunion
  7. First time I learned about the Traveling Wilburys, ikat, and eyelash extensions
  8. First trip to the African continent
  9. First place I've lived other than the great state of New York (barring my study abroad stint in Buenos Aires)
  10. First time I am a minority
  11. First blog

What does 2012 have in store? I'm looking forward to finishing my fellowship in Ethiopia, working on my Amharic, absorbing as much vitamin D as possible before returning to the Northern Hemisphere, seeing more of Ethiopia and the surrounding countries, and coming home to start law school. Hopefully there are many more firsts to come in the new year!