The Allure of Lalibela

After our time in Gonder, we traveled to Lalibela to see the famous rock-hewn churches. The maze of monolithic churches connected by passages and tunnels is a unique architectural feat. Lalibela, originally called Roha, was the Zagwe dynasty's capital in the 12th and 13th centuries. Legend says that King Lalibela was poisoned by his brother. While in a coma he took a trip to heaven where God instructed him to return to Ethiopia and rebuild Jerusalem. Lalibela awoke from his coma and commissioned the churches to be built. Today the churches are still in use, and Lalibela is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The Countryside of Lalibela

The Churches

Entrance to the northwestern group of churches
Bet Medhane Alem, like many of the other churches, has scaffolding
and roofing as protection

Bet Medhane Alem is the largest rock-hewn
church in the world

Mancala, holes on the floor

Priest

Interior of Bet Medhane Alem

Symbolic graves of Abraham, Isaac,
and Jacob

Bet Maryam, a favorite among pilgrims, is
dedicated to the Virgin Mary

Bet Maryam

Bet Meskel

Interior of Bet Danaghel, which is dedicated to nuns
murdered by the Romans in the 4th century

Interior of Bet Golgotha

Interior of Bet Golgotha

Interior of Bet Golgotha

Interior of Bet Mikael

Priest near Bet Golgotha and Bet Mikael

Bet Giyorgis is shaped like a Greek cross

Tunnel that leads down to Bet Giyorgis

Bet Giyorgis

Bet Giyorgis

Interior of Bet Giyorgis

Entrance to the southeastern group of churches

Moat that must be crossed to get to the
Southeastern churches
The path is known as the 'Way to Heaven'

Girls putting on their shoes outside Bet Gabriel-Rufael,
which may have served as a fortified royal palace

Bet Amanuel

View after leaving the southeastern cluster of churches

We ended our stay with a bonfire at the hotel. We had a local musician and singer come to play for us while we sipped coffee and tea, ate popcorn, sang along, and practiced our eskista, a traditional Ethiopian shoulder dance. Interestingly, the Harlem Shake is based on eskista.

While driving back to the airport, we passed by a quite extravagant funeral. I was sad to leave the religious epicenter of Ethiopia without thoroughly examining every mural, exquisitely designed window, engraving, hidden passageway, and crack of the ancient treasure.