Tuesday, November 29, 2011

Eye Exams and Wishing Wells

Without classes last week we were able to look into other projects in Gonder. We will be volunteering with Gondar University Hospital’s Ophthalmology Department. On Monday we met with Dr. Yared, the head of the department, and Dr. Wessen to discuss their needs and tour the wing. They would like us to do some administrative work to better organize the clinic and streamline operations. They are also hoping that we will be able to put together a program evaluation and submit proposals. Guess I will be putting my policy degree to use!

We came back to the hospital on Wednesday to observe the average patient's visit.
Patients check in by handing identifying cards
to the front desk
Patient files in the card room
Waiting room
Patients first have their eyesight checked
Doctor checking a woman's eye tension 
Patients crowd the halls rather than remain in the waiting room
An optometrist with his students checking this woman's
eyes for conjunctivitis
Later in the week Manlio, our country director, came in from Rome. We had a full day following Manlio around to check out current JDC projects in the area. We began the morning with a meeting at the Ophthalmology Department and then spoke with the dean of the Gondar University Medical School to approve our work in the hospital. From there we traveled to Gebru Warka. In January a group of college students from Canada and Israel will be visiting and helping to construct three new classrooms for the school. We observed the site and pondered how to build a well close to the school.
The Gebru Warka school consists of three classrooms and
 educates local children in grades 1 through 3
The classrooms are made from wooden sticks and corrugated
metal. The floors are dirt, and students sit on rocks organized
in rows.
Site of the new classrooms
Community well to the left of the tree
The JDC is looking to build a well closer to the school
for the children.
The next day we visited schools in Fendeka and Shumagerie to look at the structure of their wells.

Fendeka
The school has two classrooms
Teacher pumping water
Students washing their hands
Each morning, one class fetches water from
the well. The teachers pour the water into
glasses, and the children drink together.
Second grade students
Shumargie

Well for the school

Community well located across from school well

Thursday, November 24, 2011

Gratitude

Happy Thanksgiving!


Every Thanksgiving we are forced to go around the table and say one thing we are thankful for that year. So in that spirit, I am thankful for the following:

  • My education
  • Healthcare in the United States
  • The support of family, friends, and the JDC
  • The opportunity to wake up each morning and look forward to the rest of the day
  • The possibility that I will have an impact, any impact, on Gonder's community and its youth
  • Having running water today

Enjoy the Macy's Day Parade, turkey and stuffing, food coma, and football for me!

Wednesday, November 23, 2011

Getting to Know Gonder

This week our students have exams so we are not in the classroom. We've been exploring Gonder and arranging new volunteer projects in the area. Slowly, we're getting settled in and figuring out a routine. We know the little stand near the Piazza where we always buy our bananas and oranges; the supermarket where we can get fresh eggs and milk, in a bag; and the hotels with the best wifi, food, or combination thereof.
Clockwise from top left: the entrance to Gondar University,
the Post Office and Telecommunications Office, the Piazza,
and a minibus with an "Obama" sticker 
Hotel Lammergeyer
It's located right by our school so we often stop by for coffee
or lunch and use the wifi.
Macchiato and buna (coffee) 
Each cost 5 Birr, or roughly US$0.30.
Over the weekend, we spent an afternoon at the Goha Hotel. The hotel is located to the north of the city and perched high atop a hill. The garden around the restaurant terrace is bright and well-manicured, and the view of Gonder and the countryside is unrivaled.
View of the city
View of the countryside
Birds soaring above the hotel
The birds appeared to be circling for prey
We also traveled north to the village of Wolleka. The road from Gonder to Wolleka is under construction by the Chinese. It is currently a bumpy, winding dirt road that slowly snakes its way into the highlands. Our first stop was the Project Ploughshare Women's Crafts Training Center. The center, which has been open for 17 years, helps disadvantaged women learn skilled crafts such as pottery and weaving.
Clockwise from left: two women hard at work around a
pottery wheel, additional pottery wheels, an electric kiln,
and finished, lacquered products ready for sale
Pots we bought to make shiro (a roasted chickpea dish) in
After buying two small pots, we made our way into the heart of the village to see the synagogue. Historically, northern and northwestern Ethiopia, including Wolleka, was home to a thriving Jewish population. Most of the Jewish residents were airlifted to Israel in the 1980s and 1990s through rescue missions like Operation Moses and Operation Solomon.
Village of Wolleka
Synagogue

Friday, November 18, 2011

Cleanliness is Next to...

I woke up this morning, and we did not have running water. When we returned from school this afternoon, the water had returned as well. I immediately turned on the water heater in my bathroom, and thirty minutes later I was in the shower. Since I’ve been in Gonder, I have now been able to take three showers (one cold and two hot). We have stocked up on bottles for drinking and barrels of clean water from the JDC Health Clinic for cooking, washing dishes and clothing, and flushing our toilets. As someone who showers daily and occasionally twice in one day, I’ve had to get over my notion of “clean” and come to terms with the scarcity and sanctity of water abroad.

This is a dried up river we pass every day on the way to
school or into town. Many locals bath and wash their
clothing here.
While I am a self-proclaimed water abuser, I am not a germaphobe. I have been known to ride the New York subway without immediately washing my hands after each trip. Over the summer, I had a flip-flop break while walking across 49th Street between Broadway and 8th Avenue. The Theater District is a slightly more sanitary extension of Times Square that boasts the unmistakable stench of urine, feces, garbage, and sweaty tourists. I made it to work a block away and immediately doused my foot with soap and water. I checked on my foot at the end of the day and was surprised that it had not turned green and fallen off.

Arguably, the Head Lice Hysteria of 2007 was worse than the Flip-Flop Fiasco of 2011. During my freshman year of college I traveled to Montevideo, Uruguay to volunteer with Un Techo Para Mi País building houses in slums. We were constructing a new one-room home for a young mother and her five children. I spent the majority of my time playing with the children. Regrettably, I allowed the girls to touch my hair and braid it. It wasn’t until finals, a few weeks after returning, that I realized I had lice, and a bad case of it at that. I’ll spare you the details, but I spent the next few weeks battling the lice. I know every shampoo, homeopathic remedy, and trick out there.

So as you can see, I am no stranger to germs. And, frankly, I think a good shock to the immune system every once and while only makes you stronger. I’ve made it 23 years after all. At home, I’ve been careless. Here I need to make more of a concerted effort to think about my health. I quickly learned to always carry hand sanitizer and tissues, avoid wearing sandals, and inquire at restaurants about how vegetables are prepared. I am more conscious of where my hands have been and where they are going. It’s a little tiresome right now, but I know it will become second nature in time.
Farm animals roam the streets, bringing with them lots of
flies and fleas and leaving behind dropping
Cows, goats, and sheep grazing at the local amphitheater 
Many roads, especially those outside of Gonder, are dirt,
which makes wearing sandals a filthy endeavor
Children love shaking hands

According to The Water Project, a non-profit organization bringing relief communities around the world who suffer from lack of access to clean water and proper sanitation, nearly 1 billion people do not have safe water to drink. Additionally, 115 die every hour from diseases linked to poor sanitation, poor hygiene, and contaminated water. My experience with water shortages has certainly been more of a nuisance than a health risk. Sadly, for many people in Ethiopia this is not the case. The JDC has recognized the need for clean water in the Gonder region. It has built nine wells in rural villages and is currently involved in other purifying projects. I hope to see these during my time in Gonder.

High quality water is more than the dream of the conservationists, more than a political slogan; high quality water, in the right quantity at the right place at the right time, is essential to health, recreation, and economic growth.
-Edmund S. Muskie, U.S. Senator, 1966

Wednesday, November 16, 2011

Back to School

We thought Monday would be our first day teaching at Fasiladas but were suspicious, as we hadn’t received the English textbooks and teacher’s guide over the weekend. When we got to the school around 9:00 AM we met with Temsegen and the principal. Temsegen had produced a schedule for us. It was disappointing – one period a day, four days a week. It also looked like Ari and I would be sharing classes.

As the principal, Temsegen, and Alemu spoke animatedly in Amharic, I started calculating in my head...  One period a day for four days amounted to 42 minutes a day, or 2 hours and 48 minutes a week. Luckily, the three men finished speaking, and Alemu informed us that Temsegen would draft a new schedule. We were to have two to three of our own classes each day.

We left the school and headed into the countryside to visit a number of schools the JDC has constructed for the local communities. The landscape was breathtaking, rolling hills that stretched as far as the eye could see. At each school, the children ran out from their classrooms to greet us, shrieking, "Hallo! Hallo!" and grabbing our hands to shake. They were eager to show off their English and ask us a few questions. The teachers were very humble and appreciative of the JDC's work in the area.

Shumargie
Old classroom
Children outside the new school, which has two classrooms 
First grade students
Second grade students
Sera Warka
Walking through corn fields to get to the school
Class used to be held under the large acacia tree on the right.
Since the new school was built, the number of students has
doubled.
There is only one classroom. The first grade class and
second grade class alternate using the classroom weekly.
Second grade students
Saleaj
Students outside the main building
Students in front of an additional classroom, which will be
demolished once the new building is complete
New cement, rather than mud, building being erected
Children playing basketball outside the school
In rural areas classrooms make all the difference. Students are excited to attend school every day in a real classroom with benches, desks, and a chalkboard. They no longer have to travel long distances to the next nearest school or sit on stones outside while enduring the heat and other natural elements. The classrooms also appear to legitimize education in farming communities where children are needed to help support their families. In a country where 46.3% of the population is under 14 years old, and 42.7% is literate (CIA World Factbook), these rural schools are necessary in educating isolated Ethiopians and preparing society's next generation of leaders.

Tuesday, November 15, 2011

The Camelot of Africa

Over the weekend we were able to relax and unpack bit by bit. Luckily, the water and electricity returned on Saturday morning. We also did some touring of Gonder. Emperor Fasiladas founded the new capital of Gonder in 1636, ushering in a golden age for Ethiopia. Gonder remained the seat of the empire until 1855. I won’t bore you with a history lesson so I'll let the pictures speak for themselves.

Royal Enclosure
The Royal Enclosure, or Fasil Ghebbi, was restored with the help of UNESCO
and made a World Heritage Site in 1979
Fasiladas' Palace 
Another view of Fasilidas' Palace 
Iyasu I's Palace
Interior of Iyasu I's Palace
Yohannes' Library 
Fasiladas' Archive
House of Song
Stables on the left and Banquet Hall on the right
Interior of the Banquet Hall
Bakaffa's Palace
Fasiladas’ Bath
Fasiladas' Bath was constructed not only as a bath for the royals
but also as a place to hold religious ceremonies
Thought to be the second residence of Fasiladas
The sunken pool is larger than an Olympic-size swimming pool.
During Timkat the pool is filled with water from a nearby river,
and after a priest has blessed it, the locals dive in to replicate
Jesus' baptism. 
Amazing tree roots that have grown over the walls
Zobel's Mausolem
Zobel was Yohannes I's horse
Debre Berhan Selassie Church
The church was miraculously saved from Sudanese
Dervishes in the 1880s by a swarm of bees
Exterior of the church 
Colorful murals adorn the walls
Close view of the ceiling decorated with angels' faces
Ceremonial drums
Kuskuam
Church outside of the complex
Entrance to Kuskuam 
Empress Mentewab moved out of the Royal
Enclosure and built Kuskuam after her husband
Emperor Bakaffa passed away 
Mentewab's Private Residence
Social Hall and Lounge
View of Gonder
Down the hill from Kuskuam are tiny huts where religious
students live while training to become monks